Increases (Machine Knitting)
Introduction
Increases in machine knitting are techniques used to add stitches to the needle bed, typically at the edges of the fabric, to widen the knitted piece. This shaping is essential for creating garments like sleeves, necklines, and other contoured items. Increases can be broadly categorized into simple (non-fashioned) methods and more refined fashioned (or fully-fashioned) methods, which create a neater edge suitable for seaming or decorative purposes.[1][2]
Simple Increase
A simple increase is the quickest and easiest method for adding a single stitch. It is often used when a perfectly straight edge is not critical, such as for sleeves or patterned garments where the increase marks are less noticeable.[1]
How to Perform a Simple Increase
- Ensure the Carriage is on one side of the Needle Bed.
- Pull the first empty needle adjacent to the knitting, on the side nearest the carriage, all the way forward into working position (position B).[2]
- Knit across the row. A loop of yarn will form around the new needle. When the next row is knitted, this loop will form a new stitch, effectively increasing the fabric by one stitch.[2]
- This method can be performed at both ends of the knitting if required, by pulling out a new needle on each side before knitting the row.[1]
- As the knitting widens, remember to adjust and move your weights to maintain even tension.[1]
Fashioned Increases
Fashioned increases, sometimes called "fully fashioned" increases, involve manipulating existing stitches to create a new stitch, resulting in a neater, straighter edge. These are often preferred for garment pieces that will be seamed together or where a visible, decorative increase line is desired.[1] They typically use transfer tools and are made a few stitches in from the edge.
Single Transfer Tool Increase
This method creates an increase on the second stitch from the edge, forming a neat edge suitable for seaming.[2] It can be worked on either or both edges simultaneously.
How to Perform a Single Transfer Tool Increase
- Using a single-prong Transfer Tool, remove the outermost edge stitch from its needle.[2]
- Bring a new, empty needle forward next to the edge.[2]
- Move the stitch held on the transfer tool onto the hook of this new needle.[2]
- Insert the tip of the transfer tool into the horizontal bar below the second stitch from the edge.[2][1]
- Lift this bar and hang it onto the hook of the second needle from the edge (the one that previously held the second stitch). This creates the increased stitch.[2]
- Continue to knit the row as normal.
Two-Prong Transfer Tool Increase
Also known as a "fully fashioned" increase, this method typically creates the increase on the third stitch from the edge, producing a visible and often decorative increase line. It can be worked on either or both edges.[2]
How to Perform a Two-Prong Transfer Tool Increase (Right Side Example)
- Using a two-prong Transfer Tool, remove the two outermost edge stitches from their needles.[2][1]
- Bring a new, empty needle forward next to the edge.[2]
- Move the two stitches held on the transfer tool outwards by one needle position, onto the two needles immediately to the right (if working on the right edge), leaving one empty needle (a gap) between the moved stitches and the main fabric.[2][1]
- Using a single-prong transfer tool, insert its tip into the horizontal bar (the "heel") below the stitch to the left of the newly created gap.[1]
- Lift this bar and hang it onto the hook of the empty needle in the gap. This forms the new stitch.[1]
- Continue to knit the row.
Variations
- This method can be adapted by using a three-prong or multi-prong transfer tool to move three or more stitches outwards, which creates a more pronounced and visible increase line.[2][1]
- To perform this increase on the left side, mirror the steps: move the stitches one needle to the left and pick up the bar from the stitch to the right of the gap.[1]
Multiple Increases
When a pattern requires adding several stitches at once, such as at the beginning of a sleeve or for a cast-on edge, this is essentially a form of Casting On. This method is typically worked on the edge nearest the Carriage.[2][1]
How to Perform Multiple Increases (E-Wrap Method Example)
This example describes adding five stitches using an e-wrap method.
On the Right Edge (Carriage on Right)
- Bring the desired number of new needles (e.g., five) on the right edge all the way forward to position D.[2]
- It may be easier to unthread the carriage before beginning.[2]
- Pass the yarn under the first new needle from the left (needle 1), then bring it up between needle 1 and needle 2.
- Go counter-clockwise (to the left) over needle 1, then pass the yarn under needles 1 and 2, and come up between needles 2 and 3. A loop is now around needle 1.[2]
- Continue this e-wrapping process: go counter-clockwise over needle 2, pass yarn under needles 2 and 3, come up between needles 3 and 4. Repeat for needles 3 and 4.[2]
- Wrap the yarn around the last new needle (needle 5).
- Rethread the carriage and knit the row.
- After knitting the first row, it is helpful to hang a Claw Weight in the cast-on edge of the newly formed stitches to ensure proper tension.[2]
On the Left Edge (Carriage on Left)
- Bring the desired number of new needles (e.g., five) on the left edge all the way forward to position D.[2]
- Wrap the needles clockwise, which is the reverse of the method used for the right edge.[2]
- Rethread the carriage and knit the row.
- Hang a Claw Weight in the cast-on edge of the new stitches after knitting the first row.[2]