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Ribbers

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This is the approved revision of this page, as well as being the most recent.

A knitting machine ribber attachment is an essential accessory that converts a flat-bed knitting machine into a double-bed knitting machine[1]. This transformation allows for the simultaneous creation of both knit and purl stitches, which is fundamental for producing true ribbed fabrics[2]. Ribbers greatly expand the range of fabrics and garments that can be produced, moving beyond basic stockinette stitch to professional-grade knitwear[3].

Capabilities[edit]

With a ribber attachment, a knitting machine can create a variety of advanced fabrics and techniques:

  • True Ribbing: Produces elastic, professional-looking ribbing (e.g., 1x1, 2x2) for cuffs, necklines, and garment hems[2].
  • Circular Knitting: Enables knitting in the round, creating seamless tubes for items like socks, hats, and garment bodies[2].
  • Double Jacquard: Creates patterned fabrics with no floats on the back, resulting in a reversible, colored-patterned fabric[1].
  • Complex Stitch Textures: Facilitates tuck stitch, miss stitch, cables, and other intricate patterns that require interaction between two needle beds[4].
  • Reversible Fabrics: Many double-bed techniques result in fabrics that look good on both sides.

Compatibility and Gauge[edit]

Ribber attachments must precisely match the gauge of the main knitting machine to ensure proper operation and stitch formation[1]. The gauge refers to the distance between the needles.

  • Standard Gauge: Typically 4.5 mm, suitable for fine to medium weight yarns and most garment work[2].
  • Bulky Gauge: Typically 9 mm (or 8 mm), designed for thicker, woolly yarns and quick-knit winter accessories[2].
  • Mid-Gauge
  • Fine Gauge

Almost all knitting machine manufacturers produced corresponding ribbing attachments for their flat-bed machines[1]. It is crucial to check the specific machine series for compatibility (e.g., a Brother standard gauge ribber will not fit a Silver Reed bulky machine)[2].

Setup and Alignment[edit]

Setting up a ribber attachment requires careful attention to detail and often involves adjusting the main bed and then attaching and aligning the ribber[3]. Always refer to the specific instruction manual for your machine and ribber model[3].

Main Bed Preparation[edit]

1. Swap Machine Clamps: The main bed clamps are typically swapped to tilt the main bed backward at an angle[3]. 2. Adjust Yarn Mast: The yarn mast's tilt needs to be adjusted to counteract the main bed's new angle. If the main bed is tilted back, the yarn mast should be turned to prevent it from tilting too far backward[3]. 3. Adjust Tension/Rear Yarn Guide: The tension or rear yarn guide should be twisted through to the back[3]. 4. Secure Clamps: Ensure all main bed clamps are tightly secured to the table, flush with the edge[3].

Attaching the Ribber Bed[edit]

1. Check Connectors: Brother and Silver Reed (including Studio, Singer, Empisal) machines have different connector designs. Silver Reed machines often require two auxiliary pieces (left and right) to be added to the main bed before attaching the ribber[3]. 2. Position the Ribber Bed: Carefully lift and handle the ribber bed into position, aligning one end first (e.g., the left end for Silver Reed, as the right end often swivels)[3]. 3. Tighten Connecting Screws: Once positioned, tighten all connecting screws as much as possible. For Silver Reed, ensure the ribber joiner is pushed fully into the auxiliary piece before tightening[3]. 4. Clamp the Ribber: Securely clamp the ribber bed to the table as instructed in the manual[3]. On Silver Reed, raise the push-up cams[3].

Checking Ribber Alignment[edit]

Proper alignment is critical for smooth operation and preventing needle damage. The ribber has three vertical levels (top, middle, bottom) controlled by drop levers. For knitting rib, the bed needs to be in the top position[3].

1. Vertical Alignment:

  • This measures the gap between the two beds.
  • With the ribber in the top position, the main carriage (with the ribber arm attached) and the ribber carriage should connect easily[3].
  • If they do not connect smoothly, re-check all connections, tilting clamps, and auxiliary pieces[3].
  • Once connected, run both carriages a few times (with needles out of work) to ensure smooth movement[3].

2. Horizontal Alignment (Racking):

  • This refers to the side-to-side relationship of the beds, controlled by the racking handle (typically on the bottom left of the ribber)[3].
  • The racking handle moves the ribber bed incrementally left and right.
  • In position H5, needles pushed up on both beds opposite each other should pass and interlock[3].
  • In position P5, needles pushed up on both beds opposite each other should butt up against each other[3].
  • If these conditions are not met, slightly loosen the joining screws and gently adjust the ribber's horizontal position until alignment is correct[3]. Misalignment can sometimes occur even after moving the machine[3].

Maintenance and Troubleshooting[edit]

Regular maintenance is essential for the longevity and performance of a ribber attachment[2].

Essential Maintenance Tips[edit]

  • Keep it Clean: Use compressed air to remove lint and debris after every project[2].
  • Oil Regularly: Apply high-quality machine oil sparingly to the needle beds to ensure smooth movement, avoiding staining the yarn[2].
  • Check Needles: Periodically inspect knitting machine needles for straightness. Bent or rusted needles can cause dropped stitches and uneven tension[2]. If the machine "clunks" or resists movement, stop immediately and check for misaligned needles or a dirty carriage[2].

Troubleshooting Common Issues[edit]

  • Dropped Stitches: Often caused by incorrect tension settings, poor yarn quality (fuzzy or uneven ply), or misaligned needles[2].
  • Tuck or Slip Stitches (when plain knit is intended): Usually indicates misaligned carriage settings or needles not fully pushed into the working position[2].
  • General Malfunctions: When in doubt, re-thread the machine, check the tension dial, and ensure weights are evenly distributed across the fabric[2]. Most issues can be resolved by slowing down and verifying each needle's path[2].

Notable Ribber Models and Manufacturers[edit]

Many manufacturers produced ribbers compatible with their main bed machines. Some models are highly regarded for specific qualities[2].

  • Artisan
    • ArtKnitter, standard-gauge[1]
    • Art Rib Knitter, standard-gauge[1]
  • Bond
    • Bond Ribber[1]
    • Bond Elite Ribber[1]
  • Brother (also branded as KnitKing and Jones)
    • KR110, fine gauge[1]
    • KR120, fine gauge[1]
    • KR1101, fine gauge[1]
    • KR230, bulky[1] (KnitKing PCB-R, KnitKing KR230)[1]
    • KR260, bulky[1]
    • KR321, standard[1]
    • KR531, standard[1]
    • KR551, standard (Jones KR551)[1]
    • KR580, standard[1]
    • KR586, standard (Jones KR586)[1]
    • KR587, standard[1]
    • KR600, standard[1]
    • KR710, standard (noted for vintage quality and longevity)[1][2]
    • KR810, standard[1]
    • KR830, standard (recommended for beginners due to robustness and ease of transfer)[1][2]
    • KR838, standard[1]
    • KR840, standard[1]
    • KR850, standard (considered a "gold standard" for smooth operation and precise needle selection)[1][2]
    • KR890, standard[1]
    • KR900, standard (KnitKing R900, KnitKing RK900)[1]
  • Corona
    • Corona Genie CHR200, standard[1]
  • ELNA
    • ER2350, bulky, 9 mm[1]
    • ER2450, standard, 4.5 mm[1]
  • Empisal (also branded as Knitmaster)
    • SRP50, standard (Knitmaster SRP50)[1]
    • SRP60, standard (Knitmaster SRP60)[1]
    • SRP60N, standard (Knitmaster SRP60N)[1]
    • Supermatic PB8 KRE68[1]
    • KR67, standard[1]
    • KR70[1]
    • KR90[1]
    • KR600[1]
    • KR680, standard[1]
    • SR-150, bulky, 9 mm (Knitmaster SR-150)[1]
    • SR-155, bulky, 9 mm (Knitmaster SR-155)[1]
    • KR820, standard[1]
  • Genie
    • Genie KR-710, standard[1]
  • Knitmaster (see also Empisal)
    • SR101, standard[1]
    • SR302, standard[1]
    • 555[1]
    • Ribmaster 3500[1]
    • Ribmaster 4500[1]
  • Knittax
  • Lemair Helvetia
  • Mitsubishi
    • Ribber for MH-350 knitting machine[1]
  • Mondipoint[1]
  • Passap
    • E6000 Ribber (known for its unique push-button system and precision for advanced work)[2]
  • Prazisa
    • Prazisa Home Knitter Ribber, standard[1]
  • Singer/Silver Reed/Studio (ribbers are generally interchangeable across these brands)[1]
    • General naming conventions: "SR" for bulky, "SRP" for standard, "F" for fine gauge, "J" for extra features (e.g., double-bed jacquard)[1].
    • FRJ80, fine[1]
    • FRP70, fine-gauge[1]
    • Pile Rib Knitter, standard[1]
    • SRP-N[1]
    • SR-7, standard[1]
    • SR-8, standard[1]
    • SR10, standard[1]
    • SR101, standard[1]
    • SR102, standard[1]
    • SR105, standard[1]
    • SR120, bulky, 8 mm[1]
    • SR150, bulky, 9 mm[1]
    • SR151, bulky, 9 mm[1]
    • SR155, bulky, 9 mm[1]
    • SR200, standard[1]
    • SR301, standard[1]
    • SR302, standard[1]
    • SR303, standard[1]
    • SRN321, standard[1]
    • SRP20, standard[1]
    • SRP50, standard (a lighter, more accessible model)[1][2]
    • SRP60, standard[1]
    • SRP60N, standard (a "workhorse" known for user-friendliness, clean elastic ribbing, and good parts availability)[1][2]
    • SRP322, standard[1]
    • SRP360[1]
    • SRP-561, standard[1]
    • SRJ70, standard (may be equipped with RJ1 birdseye carriage)[1]
    • SR860, mid-gauge[1]
    • SR888, standard[1]
    • Rib Knitter KR11[1]
    • Rib Knitter KR12[1]
    • Singer 200-D, standard[1]
    • Singer 555, standard[1]
  • Toyota
    • K450, standard[1]
    • KR460, standard[1]
    • KR501, standard[1]
    • KR504, standard[1]
    • KR505, standard[1]
    • KR506, standard[1]
    • KR300, bulky[1]
    • KR308, bulky[1]
    • KR310, bulky[1]
    • KR350, bulky[1]
    • KR650, bulky[1]

Choosing a Ribber[edit]

When selecting a ribber, consider the following factors[2]:

  • Compatibility: Ensure the ribber's gauge and specific model series match your existing main bed machine[2].
  • Project Type: If knitting fine socks, a ribber that handles fine yarn well is crucial. For heavy sweaters, prioritize robust needle beds[2].
  • Skill Level: Beginners may benefit from simpler, more forgiving models, while advanced knitters might seek precision and complex patterning capabilities[2].
  • Availability of Parts: Ribber needles are frequently replaced, so readily available spare parts are a significant advantage[2].
  • Workspace and Budget: Smaller, more accessible models like the Silver Reed SRP50 can be a smart compromise for limited space or budget[2].

Accessories for Ribber Knitting[edit]

To effectively use a ribber, several accessories are typically required[4]:

References[edit]

  1. ↑ 1.000 1.001 1.002 1.003 1.004 1.005 1.006 1.007 1.008 1.009 1.010 1.011 1.012 1.013 1.014 1.015 1.016 1.017 1.018 1.019 1.020 1.021 1.022 1.023 1.024 1.025 1.026 1.027 1.028 1.029 1.030 1.031 1.032 1.033 1.034 1.035 1.036 1.037 1.038 1.039 1.040 1.041 1.042 1.043 1.044 1.045 1.046 1.047 1.048 1.049 1.050 1.051 1.052 1.053 1.054 1.055 1.056 1.057 1.058 1.059 1.060 1.061 1.062 1.063 1.064 1.065 1.066 1.067 1.068 1.069 1.070 1.071 1.072 1.073 1.074 1.075 1.076 1.077 1.078 1.079 1.080 1.081 1.082 1.083 1.084 1.085 1.086 1.087 1.088 1.089 1.090 1.091 1.092 1.093 1.094 1.095 1.096 1.097 1.098 1.099 1.100 1.101 1.102 https://mightyknittymachines.com/km-encyclopedia/attachments/ribbers/ Ribbing attachments – Knitting Machine Encyclopedia
  2. ↑ 2.00 2.01 2.02 2.03 2.04 2.05 2.06 2.07 2.08 2.09 2.10 2.11 2.12 2.13 2.14 2.15 2.16 2.17 2.18 2.19 2.20 2.21 2.22 2.23 2.24 2.25 2.26 2.27 https://www.knittingcottage.com/12908/best-ribber-attachments-double-bed-knitting/ 6 Best Ribber Attachments For Double Bed Knitting
  3. ↑ 3.00 3.01 3.02 3.03 3.04 3.05 3.06 3.07 3.08 3.09 3.10 3.11 3.12 3.13 3.14 3.15 3.16 3.17 3.18 3.19 3.20 https://www.mkc.community/machine-knitting-blog/how-to-use-a-knitting-machine-ribber How to use a ribber with a knitting machine
  4. ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 https://www.theknittingschool.online/classes/ribber-bed Knitting with the Ribber Bed — The Knitting School Online
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