Double Bed Jacquard
Double Bed Jacquard is a machine knitting technique that utilizes both the main bed and the ribber to produce a patterned fabric with multiple colors. Unlike single bed jacquard (often referred to as Fair Isle), which creates floats on the back of the fabric, double bed jacquard produces a double-sided fabric where the unselected color knits on the opposing bed, thus eliminating floats and creating a thicker, warmer textile.[1][2]
How it Works[edit]
The fundamental principle of Double Bed Jacquard involves knitting two rows for each color in a pattern repeat. As the carriage moves across the beds, the selected color knits on the main bed (or ribber, depending on the design), while the unselected color knits on the opposite bed, forming a second layer of fabric. This interlocked structure results in a dense, reversible fabric.[2]
Automatic patterning systems, such as punchcards or electronic machines, significantly simplify the process of creating Double Bed Jacquard patterns. For manual machines, the technique requires hand selection of needles and multiple passes of the carriage for each color.[1]
Benefits and Characteristics[edit]
- Float-Free Fabric: The primary advantage of Double Bed Jacquard is the elimination of floats on the reverse side, which are common in single bed colorwork techniques like Fair Isle.
- Double-Sided: The technique creates a fabric with two distinct sides, often with the reverse side being a mirror image or inverse colorway of the front.
- Thick and Warm: Due to its double-layered construction, Double Bed Jacquard fabric is inherently thicker and warmer than single-bed knits, making it ideal for outerwear, blankets, and cozy accessories.[1]
- Stability: The interlocked nature of the stitches provides a stable and durable fabric.
Equipment and Yarn Considerations[edit]
Required Equipment[edit]
- Ribber: A ribber attachment is essential for Double Bed Jacquard, as it allows for knitting on both beds simultaneously.
- Color Changer: While not strictly mandatory, an automatic Color Changer greatly increases efficiency, especially since the technique typically involves knitting two rows per color. Manual color changes are possible but more labor-intensive.[2]
Yarn Weight and Tension[edit]
The thickness of Double Bed Jacquard fabric means that yarn weight and tension are critical considerations. Using yarn that is too thick can make it difficult to pass the carriage and result in an overly dense or inflexible fabric.
- Recommended Yarn: 2-ply yarn is generally considered best for Double Bed Jacquard, with 3-ply being a reasonable alternative depending on the specific yarn and machine.[3]
- Avoid Heavy Yarns: 4-ply yarn is typically too thick for this technique, often leading to carriage resistance and an unmanageable fabric.[3]
- Tension: Appropriate tension settings are crucial. A tension setting that works for single bed knitting with a particular yarn may be too tight for Double Bed Jacquard with the same yarn, requiring a looser setting.[3]
Techniques and Variations[edit]
Ladderback Double Jacquard[edit]
To mitigate the thickness and inflexibility that can sometimes result from a completely solid Double Bed Jacquard fabric, the ladderback technique can be employed. This involves transferring some needles from the ribber to the main bed after the initial cast-on (e.g., two needles transferred to the main bed, with the third remaining on the ribber). This creates a more stretchy, lighter fabric, uses less yarn, and produces an interesting texture on both sides, making it suitable for items like scarves.[2]
Stitch Alignment[edit]
A common challenge in Double Bed Jacquard is achieving precise stitch alignment, particularly with patterns featuring alternating color stitches in a row. Stitches of the same color can sometimes clump together, creating visible lines rather than distinct individual stitches. Experimentation with tension and specific pattern settings (e.g., avoiding certain lili settings for bird's-eye patterns) may be necessary to achieve desired results.[3]
Comparison to Other Colorwork Techniques[edit]
While the term "jacquard" can broadly refer to any knitting with different color yarns, machine knitters distinguish Double Bed Jacquard from other methods:
- Intarsia: Creates blocks of color without floats, but typically involves manual yarn manipulation and often requires a separate carriage or specific machine features.
- Fair Isle (Knit-In): Uses two colors per row on a single bed with automatic patterning, but produces floats on the back of the fabric.
- Multi-Color Slip and Multi-Color Tuck: Knit colors one at a time with multiple carriage passes, often on a single bed, and can also produce floats or different textures. Double Bed Jacquard can be seen as adding ribber needles to multi-color slip or tuck to reduce floats.[1]