Intarsia
Intarsia on the Machine[edit]
Intarsia is a colorwork technique in machine knitting that allows for distinct blocks of color within a row without creating floats across the back of the fabric. This results in a single-layer fabric with a clean finish, making it ideal for bold graphic designs, motifs, and patterns where colors do not repeat frequently across a row.[1][2]
Methods of Machine Intarsia[edit]
Intarsia can be achieved on most flatbed knitting machines through several methods:
Built-in Intarsia[edit]
Some knitting machines are equipped with built-in intarsia capabilities. For these machines, the process typically involves:[1]
- Selecting needles according to a chart.
- Laying the multiple yarns across their respective sections of needles.
- Setting the main carriage to its intarsia cam setting.
- Knitting multiple colors across the row with a single pass of the carriage.
Separate Intarsia Carriage[edit]
Most knitting machines that do not have built-in intarsia functionality can utilize a dedicated Intarsia Carriage as an accessory. This specialized carriage replaces the main carriage for intarsia work.[3] The steps are similar to built-in intarsia:[1]
- Selecting needles according to a chart.
- Laying the multiple yarns across their respective sections of needles.
- Replacing the main carriage with the Intarsia Carriage.
- Knitting multiple colors across the row with a single pass of the Intarsia Carriage.
Using an Intarsia Carriage significantly speeds up the process compared to manual methods, allowing for efficient creation of complex color designs.[1]
Manual Intarsia[edit]
Intarsia can be performed manually on any flatbed knitting machine, though it requires multiple passes of the carriage for each row of knitting.[1]
- Select the needles for the first color section.
- Place all other needles in Hold Position.
- Set the carriage to hold.
- Thread the carriage with the first color yarn.
- Knit the needles in work.
- After knitting, place the needles just knit into hold position and bring the needles for the next color section into work.
- Thread the carriage with the second color yarn.
- Knit the needles in work.
- Repeat this process, knitting one color section at a time and passing the carriage multiple times to complete all stitches in the row, following the chart.
Intarsia vs. Other Colorwork Techniques[edit]
Intarsia is distinct from other common machine knitting colorwork methods:
- Fair Isle (stranded colorwork) involves carrying unused colors across the back of the knitting, creating floats. This technique is suitable for patterns where colors alternate frequently. Intarsia, by contrast, uses separate yarn sources for each color area, resulting in no floats.[1][2]
- Duplicate Stitch is a surface embroidery technique applied after the fabric is knit, used for adding small color details rather than creating large color blocks.[2]
Yarn Management[edit]
For intarsia, each distinct color section requires its own separate yarn supply. To manage multiple yarns and prevent tangling, Yarn Bobbins or small balls (often referred to as "butterflies") are commonly used. These are attached to the individual color sections and hang at the back of the machine.[1][2]
- Use manageable lengths of yarn for each bobbin (e.g., 1-2 meters for a medium motif) to minimize tangling.
- Consider using Stitch Markers at color boundaries on the needle bed to help track where yarn changes occur.
Joining Colors[edit]
A critical aspect of intarsia is twisting the yarns at each color boundary to prevent holes from forming in the fabric. This interlocking of yarns ensures a clean, continuous fabric. On a machine, this twisting is performed manually on the needle bed before the carriage passes over the stitches.[2]
- When switching from one color to the next, bring the old color yarn to one side (e.g., to the left), then pick up the new color yarn from underneath the old yarn, twisting them together.
- Lay the new yarn across its designated needles. This action interlocks the yarns, closing any potential gaps.
- Ensure consistent tension at the join to prevent puckering or loose stitches.
Troubleshooting Common Intarsia Problems[edit]
- Holes at color joins: This typically occurs if the yarns are not properly twisted at the color boundary. The twist must interlock the old and new yarns to close the gap.
- Puckering along color boundaries: This is often a tension issue. The yarn at the join may be too tight. Aim for consistent tension at the join stitch, matching the surrounding stitches.
- Tangled bobbins: Use shorter yarn lengths for bobbins. Allow the work to hang freely to help bobbins untangle naturally as you work.
- Uneven stitches at boundaries: This can be due to inconsistent tension when picking up a new yarn. Pull the new yarn firmly (but not tightly) after the join stitch to match the size of adjacent stitches.[2]