Ribbing

Ribbing is a fundamental knitting technique that creates a stretchy, structured fabric by alternating knit and purl stitches. This forms vertical columns of stitches that lie flat and resist curling, unlike Stockinette stitch. In machine knitting, ribbing is primarily achieved using a Ribber attachment, though it can also be created through hand manipulation or by using mock ribbing techniques.

What is Ribbing?

Ribbing is characterized by its elasticity and ability to hold shape, making it ideal for areas of garments requiring stretch and stability. Common applications include:

• Cuffs and Hems: Provides stability and stretch to keep garments in place.
• Necklines: Allows sweaters to stretch over the head while maintaining shape.
• Hats: Creates snug brims.
• Socks and Mittens: Ensures cuffs stay up.

Ribbing on a Machine Knitter

The Ribber Attachment

A Ribber is a powerful accessory for a flat bed Knitting machine that allows for the creation of true knit and purl stitches, forming ribbed fabrics. It is considered an essential accessory for creating professional-looking garments.

Attaching the Ribber

Attaching a ribber requires careful setup of both the main bed and the ribber itself. While specific instructions vary by machine make and model (e.g., Brother, Silver Reed, Studio, Singer), the basic principles are consistent:

• Main Bed Setup: The main bed's clamps are typically adjusted to tilt the bed backward. The Yarn mast's tilt may also need to be reversed to compensate, and the tension/rear yarn guide twisted to the back.
• Ribber Bed Attachment: Auxiliary parts may be required for some machines (e.g., Silver Reed uses left and right auxiliary pieces). The ribber bed is carefully lifted and positioned, then connecting screws are tightened securely. On Silver Reed machines, the Ribber Joiner should be pushed fully into the Auxiliary Piece before tightening. The ribber is then clamped firmly to the table.

Ribber Alignment

Proper alignment between the main bed and the ribber is crucial for smooth operation and correct stitch formation. Alignment should be checked both vertically and horizontally.

• Vertical Alignment: This refers to the gap between the two beds. With the ribber in the top position and the ribber arm attached to the main carriage, the two carriages should connect easily. If not, connections like tilting clamps, connectors, and push-up cams should be checked.
• Horizontal Alignment: This controls the side-to-side relationship of the beds, impacting how needles pass each other. The Racking handle on the ribber allows incremental movement of the bed left and right. For initial setup, it is often set to position H5. Needles pushed up on opposite beds should interlock. Racking to position P5 should cause needles to butt up against each other. If alignment is off, joining screws can be slightly loosened to make minor adjustments.
• Troubleshooting Misalignment: Even slight movements of the machine can cause misalignment. Adjustments may require specific tools and reference to machine maintenance guides.

Ribber Levels

A ribber typically has three adjustable levels, controlled by drop levers on either side:

• Top Position: Used for knitting rib fabrics.
• Middle Position: Used for viewing work or correcting mistakes.
• Bottom Position: Completely out of work.

Racking

Racking is the process of moving the ribber bed horizontally in relation to the main bed using the racking handle. This technique is fundamental for casting on rib stitches and creating various textured rib patterns. Specific racking positions (e.g., H5, P5) are used for different purposes, such as needle alignment or creating specific stitch effects.

Ribber Accessories

• Wire Weight Hangers (7-Hangers): Invaluable for adding additional weight to the edges of the fabric when knitting with the ribber, especially for longer pieces like scarves and blankets.
• Ribber Cast On Comb: Used for casting on and maintaining even weight on the work, particularly when combining single and double bed stitches.

Ribbing Without a Ribber

While a ribber is ideal, ribbing can be simulated or created on a single-bed machine:

Hand Manipulation

It is possible to include purl stitches in a fabric on a flat bed machine by re-forming individual stitches using a Latch tool. This involves dropping a column of stitches and re-latching them as purl stitches.

Mock Ribbing

Mock ribbing techniques create the visual appearance of ribbing without the same elasticity. These are often used for hems and cuffs when a ribber is not available or desired. Examples include using tuck stitches to mimic 2x1 ribbing, which creates a textured fabric on the knit side but is not stretchy.

Types of Ribbing

Basic Ribs

• 1x1 Rib: Alternates 1 knit stitch and 1 purl stitch (K1, P1). It is reversible and offers significant stretch.
• 2x2 Rib: Alternates 2 knit stitches and 2 purl stitches (K2, P2). Also reversible, often considered slightly more stretchy and flexible than 1x1 rib.
• Full Needle Rib (FNR): A double-bed technique where every needle on both beds is in work, creating a dense, reversible fabric with excellent stretch.

Textured and Decorative Ribs

Many variations exist, often combining knit/purl sequences with other techniques:

• Fisherman Rib: A comfortable, stretchy, and wide reversible fabric, often created with a simple modification to 1x1 rib.
• Slipped Rib (Textured Ribbing): An easy textured rib that provides an alternative to plain 2x2 ribbing.
• Cable Eyelet Ribbing: Combines knit and purl stitches with eyelets and cables for a decorative effect.
• Ribber Zig-Zag Lace: A reversible technique utilizing full needle rib, racking, and tuck stitches.
• Swung English Rib: A variation of English Rib that combines racking with tuck stitches to create a thick, textured fabric with less stretch.
• Corrugated Rib: A two-color ribbing where knit stitches are worked in one color and purl stitches in another, creating a distinctive striped effect.
• Drop Stitch Rib: Creates an openwork, lacy effect by dropping selected stitches within a basic rib structure.
• Mini Cables with the Ribber: Adds small cable textures to projects.
• Pintucks with the Ribber: Can be used to add texture and interest to edges like cuffs.

Flat Ribs

These variations mimic the appearance of ribbing but are designed to have less stretch, suitable for projects where elasticity is not desired. They can involve various configurations of knit and purl stitches.

Ribbing Techniques

Casting On

Choosing a stretchy cast-on method is important to maintain the elasticity of the ribbed edge. Options include:

• Stretchy Hand Knitting Cast-ons: Such as the alternating long tail cast-on, long-tail tubular cast-on, or alternate cable cast-on.
• Ribber E-wrap Cast On: A quick, stretchy cast-on for both beds.
• Full Needle Rib Cast On: The basis for many ribbed fabric techniques, with methods for achieving a perfect edge.
• 2x2 Half Pitch Rib Cast On: Produces a softer rib that pulls in less than standard 2x2 ribbing.

Binding Off

Binding off in pattern is crucial to preserve the stretchiness of the ribbed edge. Stretchy bind-off methods are recommended:

• Bind Off in Pattern: Knitting or purling stitches according to the established rib pattern before passing stitches over.
• Stretchy Hand Knitting Bind-offs: Such as the sewn bind off or Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy bind-off.
• Easy Ribber Bind Off: A method finished on the machine, requiring no hand sewing.
• Double Bed Bind Off: For full needle rib, double bed jacquard, tuck rib, or any double bed fabric.

Shaping

Increasing and decreasing stitches within ribbed fabrics requires specific techniques to maintain the rib pattern and elasticity. Tutorials exist for shaping in 1x1 ribbing, 2x2 ribbing, and full needle rib.

Seaming

When seaming ribbed pieces, planning ahead is essential to ensure that the seams match and maintain the stitch sequence, especially for 1x1 ribbing.

Circular and Tubular Knitting

With a ribber, a machine can be set to knit in the round, eliminating seams for tubular pieces like socks and mittens. A variation called Half Circular or U-Knitting leaves one edge open, creating a very wide fabric.

Hems and Edges

Ribbing is frequently used for hems and edges, with various decorative options:

• Ribbed Turning Row: Creates a crisp crease for doubled bands knit in ribbing.
• Ribbed Buttonbands: Specific methods for adding ribbed buttonbands to garments.
• Loopy Ribber Hem: A simple two-row trim created by transferring stitches from the main bed to the ribber for a delicate, lacy edge.
• Lacy Ribber Hem: An eight-row technique involving main bed transfers for a feminine hem.
• Double Bed Pintucks: Creates a textured edge on cuffs or jacket bottoms using full needle rib.

Tension

Achieving perfectly matching ribbed stitch fabrics with even stitches requires careful attention to tension settings on both the main bed and the ribber. The goal is to balance the tension dials (e.g., main bed 1-10, ribber 1-8) to produce a consistent fabric. In hand knitting, using slightly smaller needles for the ribbed portion can create tighter ribbing.

Troubleshooting

Common issues when knitting with a ribber include dropped stitches, work falling off the machine, and jammed carriages. Techniques exist for rescuing dropped ribber stitches and re-hanging work after a disaster.

General Tips for Ribbing

• Yarn Choice: Springy yarns like wool and wool blends tend to