Jacquard
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Jacquard in machine knitting refers to the mechanism and stitch technique used to knit complex, multi-colored patterns where needle selection is controlled individually for each stitch. Named after Joseph Marie Jacquard, who invented the punchcard system for looms in 1804, the jacquard system allows for detailed pictorial, geometric, and textured patterns without color stranding limitations.[1]
Domestic vs. Industrial Jacquard[edit]
- Domestic Knitting Machines: Use punchcards (12 or 24-stitch repeat) or electronic selection (using computer programs or AYAB interfaces) to select individual needles. Multi-color work on a single bed results in floats (strand of unused yarn) on the back of the fabric, commonly known as Fair Isle or slip stitch.
- Industrial Circular & Flatbed Machines: Industrial builders (like Monarch, Mayer & Cie., and Stoll) build computerized jacquard machines that select needles electronically to knit multi-color patterns at high speeds, often using double-bed configurations to eliminate floats.[2]
Double Bed Jacquard (DBJ)[edit]
To create a floatless fabric, a ribber bed is used. While the main bed knits the pattern colors on the front, the ribber bed knits the backing, trapping the unused colors inside the fabric.
- Bird's Eye Backing: The ribber needles alternate knitting and slipping in a checkerboard pattern using specialized carriage settings (like the Lili buttons). This produces a dense, stable fabric with a clean, pixelated back.[1]
- Striped Backing: The ribber knits all backing stitches on every row, resulting in horizontal stripes on the reverse side.
- Solid Color Backing: The backing is knit in a single solid color, hiding the pattern yarns entirely.
- Reversible Jacquard: Colors are interchanged on both beds, creating a fabric that shows the inverse color scheme on the back.