Grafting (Machine Knitting)
Introduction
Grafting in machine knitting refers to the technique of invisibly joining two sets of live stitches, typically after the fabric has been removed from the knitting machine. The most common method for achieving this seamless join is the Kitchener Stitch, which creates a continuous row of knitting that is indistinguishable from the machine-knitted fabric itself.[1]
Purpose and Application
Grafting is a valuable finishing technique for machine knitters when a completely seamless and invisible join is desired between two pieces of fabric or between two live edges of a single piece. It is particularly useful for:
- Sock Toes: Creating a smooth, non-bulky toe closure for machine-knitted socks.[2]
- Garment Seams: Joining shoulders, underarms, or other areas of machine-knitted garments where a flat, invisible seam is preferred over a traditional sewn seam.[1]
- Continuous Fabric: Extending a piece of knitting seamlessly, making it appear as if the knitting simply turned a corner.
The Kitchener Stitch
The Kitchener stitch is a hand-manipulated technique performed with a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, typically the working yarn from the project. It involves a series of steps that mimic the formation of knit stitches, effectively "knitting" a new row between the two sets of live stitches. This structural similarity to the knitted fabric is what makes the seam invisible.[2] It is considered a form of Duplicate Stitch.
While the detailed execution of the Kitchener stitch is done by hand, its application is crucial for finishing machine-knitted items with a professional and seamless appearance. The live stitches that are grafted together would have originated from the knitting machine's needle bed, often held on waste yarn or stitch holders until ready for grafting.