Decreases (Machine Knitting)

Decreases in machine knitting are fundamental techniques used to reduce the number of active stitches on the needle bed, thereby shaping the knitted fabric. This shaping is essential for creating garment components such as necklines, armholes, yokes, and hat crowns. Decreases can be executed in various ways, resulting in different visual effects, from subtle edge reductions to prominent, decorative lines within the fabric.

Historical Context of Fully Fashioned Shaping

Historically, early knitting machines were primarily designed to produce rectangular fabric panels. Garments were then cut from these panels and sewn, similar to how woven fabric is used in sewing. Hand knitters, in contrast, often incorporated shaping directly into their work, making the increases and decreases visible as a hallmark of handmade quality. As knitting machine technology advanced, machines became capable of performing shaping directly, leading to the development of fully fashioned techniques. This allowed machine-knitted garments to feature integrated shaping, often with visible decrease lines, to achieve a tailored fit and aesthetic.

Tools for Decreasing

Most machine knitting decreases are performed using Transfer Tools. These tools are designed to lift stitches from one needle and place them onto another. Common types include:

• Single-prong transfer tool: Used for moving individual stitches.
• Multi-prong transfer tools: Available with 2, 3, or more prongs (up to 7 or more adjustable prongs), these tools allow for the simultaneous transfer of multiple stitches.

Types of Decreases

Simple Decrease (Edge Decrease)

Simple decreases are typically worked at the very edge of the fabric and are among the easiest methods for reducing stitches. They can be performed on both edges of the work simultaneously.

Method 1

• With a single-prong transfer tool, remove the edge stitch.
• Move this stitch onto the second needle from the edge.
• Return the now empty edge needle to position A (out of work).
• Continue to knit. One stitch has been decreased.

Method 2

This method is similar to Method 1 but aims for a slightly cleaner edge.

• Using a single-prong transfer tool, move the second stitch from the edge onto the edge needle.
• Now, move both stitches from the edge needle back onto the second needle from the edge.
• Return the now empty edge needle to position A (out of work).
• Continue to knit.

Fully Fashioned Decrease

Fully fashioned decreases are worked a few stitches inward from the edge, creating a visible, often decorative, decrease line. This method is particularly useful for shaping that requires a neat appearance, such as armholes or necklines that will be seamed or left open with a selvedge.

Method

• Using a 2-prong transfer tool, remove the two stitches closest to the edge (or further in, depending on desired placement).
• Move these two stitches over one needle towards the center of the fabric.
• Rehang the stitches onto the hooks of the needles, ensuring the outermost needle (now empty) is returned to position A (out of work).
• The decrease is effectively made on the second stitch inwards from the edge, with the outermost stitch forming a clean selvedge.
• For a more pronounced or decorative effect, or to decrease further from the edge, a 3-prong or multi-prong transfer tool can be used to move a larger number of stitches.

Fully fashioned decreases are typically made one or two stitches away from the edge for seamed pieces, or further in if a visible, decorative line is desired for an open edge. This placement not only enhances the aesthetic but can also simplify the seaming process. These decreases are often made in every other row for a softer curve.

Multiple Decreases (Transfer Tool Bind-Off)

Multiple decreases, often referred to as a transfer tool bind-off, are used to eliminate several stitches at once, typically at the beginning of a row for shaping elements like armholes or shoulder slopes. This method is worked on the edge nearest the carriage. It may be easier to unthread the carriage before beginning these decreases.

Method 1 (Binding off 3 stitches)

• Step 1: With a single-prong transfer tool, move the stitch from needle 1 to needle 2. Return needle 1 to position A (out of work).
• Step 2: Bring needle 2 forward to position D (holding position) so that both loops of yarn go back behind the latch.
• Step 3: Take the working yarn strand into the hook of needle 2.
• Step 4: Push needle 2 back to position B (working position) so that the yarn strand goes through both yarn loops, creating a new single stitch on needle 2.
• Step 5: Move the stitch from needle 2 to needle 3. Bring needle 3 forward so both loops go behind the latch. Place the yarn strand into the hook of needle 3, push the needle back to form a new stitch. Move the stitch from needle 3 to needle 4.
• Ensure needles 1-3 are all the way back, out of work. It can help to pull the last working needle (e.g., needle 4 in this example) forward so both loops go behind the latch, making it easier for the carriage to knit.
• Rethread the carriage and continue to knit. Placing a weight on the bound-off area can help hold it down.

This method can be adapted to decrease any number of stitches by repeating the stitch transfer and new stitch formation steps.

Method 2

This alternate method for multiple decreases also aims for a slightly better-looking result and is worked on the side next to the carriage. Unthreading the carriage first is recommended.

• Step 1: Using a single-prong transfer tool, move the second stitch from the edge onto the end needle. Then, move both stitches from the end needle back onto the second needle from the edge. Return the end needle to position A (out of work).
• Step 2: Bring the second needle forward so that both loops of yarn go back behind the latch. Take the working yarn strand into the hook.
• Step 3: Push the needle back so that the yarn strand goes through both yarn loops, creating a new single stitch on that needle.
• Repeat Steps 1-3 until the required number of stitches have been decreased. Ensure all decreased (empty) needles are fully back, out of work. Pulling the last working needle forward so both loops go behind the latch can aid knitting.
• Rethread the carriage and continue to knit. A weight on the bound-off area is beneficial.

Double and Triple Decreases

Double and triple decreases are methods of reducing multiple stitches.

Decorative Decreases

Beyond basic shaping, decreases can be strategically placed and executed to create decorative elements within the fabric. This often involves working fully fashioned decreases further inward from the fabric edge, or using specific transfer techniques to create eyelets or textured patterns.